how to not look like everyone else, part II
sixteen smallish, exquisitely talented designers to give us new perspective
Hi friends!
I’m writing to you from my new “cloffice,” which is not a cloffice at all, but a corner of the Stanford MBA library that I’ve snuck into for the last three weeks. There’s something oddly soothing about being around academia. Due to both age and occupation, I’ve been removed from this world for some time, which, for me, makes university life awash in romance and idealism. I envision people having dramatic conversations about Faulkner at Coupa Cafe after hours, and secretly hooking up with their philosophy professors and it’s all very exciting.
This being Palo Alto, the look is a little more Vuori than Ali McGraw in Love Story. But the conversations I overhear are fraught with optimism, and the pitches for the companies they are all destined to start are accompanied by the kind of unbridled enthusiasm that can only come from people who are sure they’re on the precipice of the best years of their lives. Sometimes you forget that people still think they’re going to change the world. It’s a nice reminder.
It may feel that I’m now pivoting to a totally unrelated topic (we are here to talk about clothes, after all), but we are, in a weird way, talking about a rumination on the same theme… which is how we can affect the kind of world we want to live in.
I always think of a story I read in the Times years ago about Left Bank Books, the storied West Village institution, where the owner commented that his bookshop was one of the most trafficked stores in the village, but that no one bought anything. People treated it like a museum, a relic of a time when people bought books in person, and they loved coming in to look at the first editions. But that didn’t pay his rent, he scolded Times readers in his exit interview.
It might sound ridiculous, but I do think of all of us here as patrons of fashion (and quirky bookstores and neighborhood coffee shops). Not in a pompous, high couturier kind of sense, but in the way that our wallets do matter. How and what we choose to spend will eventually dictate what the market gives us.
If what we want is a world of discovery in fashion, where we are startled with new ideas and daring, varied perspectives, if we want to be Meg Ryan and not Tom Hanks in You’ve Got Mail, then it’s also up to us to support the designers who are trying to create that for us.
That doesn’t mean we have to say goodbye to Miuccia or the holy trinity of The Row, Toteme and Khaite (especially sale season Khaite at 70% off). But there’s power in burgeoning perspective, and an unexpected magic when you mix the two (hint: add a dose of vintage too. Jewelry is an easy one).
So, below, sixteen of my favorite gorgeous, smallish brands shaping a new fashion conversation (part one here). Bonus: nearly all are helmed by women, a coincidence but who dresses women better than women? (And Yves Saint Laurent.)
OUTERWEAR
A line of sumptuous outwear that tempts me every time I see it. Gorgeous leathers, suedes, shearlings and furs, sustainably produced in Paris and Istanbul. Everything has a little sexiness to it, a sort of sheen and glamour that suggests dangerous liaisons (perhaps with philosophy professors?).
On my wish list: This luxurious shearling meets scarf jacket and oxblood leather trapeze coat
CLOTHING
A climate warrior who also makes the kind of clothes that make me feel more interesting. Unsurprisingly, Maria is also gem of a human. And she nails a category that I typically find hard: a comfortable pant that isn’t a jean, low key enough for very casual days, but still has a little character. If that stumps you too and you’re sick of kick flares, I love these carpenter pants (majorly on sale and one left in a 2, if that happens to be you!). And this is a go to for when you want an easy neutral that says you’re more fun than you look.
On my wish list: A cooler-than-thou take on the field jacket, with corduroy trim and Japanese cotton.
I just found a silk trouser from Heirlome that is a perfect representation of what I think a gala pant should be. They are very high waisted, a divisive trait in a pant that I just happen to love. But that’s what I admire about Heirlome: it takes a stand.
A big part of this Substack is the browsing (we used to call this market work in our magazine days): the open tabs, the sifting through pages and pages on Moda or Net or wherever, the rabbit holes that lead you somewhere unknown. Recently, I’ve been hit with de ja vu when I see something that stops my scroll: beautiful fabrics, a detail that makes it a bit different, pieces imbued with a dose of daring. And 90% of the time these days it’s Heirlome.
On my wish list: These pants, and also somewhere to wear them!
I have a girl crush on Daniella Kallmeyer (look her up and you will too) and her sharply tailored, often drapey clothes explain why. She instinctively knows what a certain kind of woman wants to project. There’s a layer of armor to them, a desirable distance between you and the world.
On my wish list: This oversized leather jacket. Also a very chic field jacket take in that olive waxed cotton. And how cool are these high waisted, slightly flared trousers with a pintuck.
Ramya Giangola, whose sense of personal style is so layered and fun and uniquely hers, first introduced me to Kika Vargas. The silhouettes are original: big taffeta sleeves, bubble hems, sweaters made of thick, ribbed wool in a tobacco brown.
On my wish list: The kind of dress you dream of, flowy but refined, with the most delicate lace and misshapen pearl buttons.
I’ve always subscribed to Studio Nicholson’s brand codes (often unisex, oversized, British in that aloof but devilishly chic way). It was a brand we carried on the goop shop in the early days, but it only recently reappeared on my radar. These black denim barrel jeans (they run small so size up) have found their way into my daily rotation.
On my wish list: I mean, how cool is this jacket?! It haunts me.
In its essence, fashion is fun. Escapism. A chance to try on someone else’s life for a day. Someone who wears appliqué floral miniskirts and beaded dresses and can do a pirouette, a skill left over from a fascinating past life.
On my wish list: The above! This is also very pretty for a bridal moment, and isn’t there something just so Gossip Girl about this one?
Easy knits that become part of your daily uniform. My favorite brushed cashmere sweater (there’s one left!). Soft leather pants with an elastic waist that hit right at the ankle, that magical length that you can wear with both heels and flats (these are sadly sold out). The brand still isn’t as well known in the US, which I love, because… well, you won’t look like everyone else.
On my wish list: These sand colored suede pants are the same silhouette as the leather ones, and the fabric looks gorgeous. If you are a fancy Montecito mom who favors a tonal palette, these are for you.
I think, by now, we’ve established that the Nordic countries produce fashionable offspring. This is the region that gave us Toteme and By Malene Birger. House of Dagmar, founded by three (fashionable, gorgeous, blonde) Swedish sisters, is another noteworthy expression of Nordic minimalism. It’s simple, yet never boring. A cinch here, a particular fold there.
On my wish list: This open back boucle top, with a wide leg jean or those Iris von Arnim suede pants. And if you can pull off these sheer trousers (I sadly can’t), know that I’m both jealous and happy for you.
A longstanding favorite. This sweater and these leather pants were both in major rotation. And I’ve spotted this coat on a number of muses over the years (I tried it on years ago. It swallowed me. As sad as it is, sometimes things are beautiful and on sale and just not meant for you).
On my wish list: I’m somehow drawn to this, even though it’s very much not my usual vibe. And I love this 90s Calvin inspired dress.
Morgan Stewart can do no wrong IMO (she’s impossibly chic and impossibly nice, a rare combination). And Renggli proves that. I’m particular to their sweaters and boyfriend fit work pants (which always sell out). And I love that she didn’t veer into fast fashion like so many influencer-helmed brands. I always find it so disingenuous when someone is in head to toe The Row and hawking $80 polyester pants.
On my wish list: A chic anorak for my new outdoorsy life. And this great pleated trouser.
My friend Amanda hosted a trunk show for this brand, whose name is a play on the phrase ça suffit (“it’s enough”) in French; an apropos name for their philosophy on capsule wardrobes, and maybe for life in general. After working for big houses for 30 years, Sara and Susanna started their own line, leveraging long relationships with textile factories and suppliers to create clothes that feel like designer at a more palatable (though still high - you get what you pay for) price point. I have a version of this knit that I wear constantly.
On my wish list: Their slacks are beautiful, but I also love their thick duchess satin. Two incredible sale finds: a turquoise satin mini for spring (warning - it’s short. Like Sarah Hoover short. Also go her buy her book! It’s hilarious and tragic and written beautifully.) or this stunning burgundy maxi for a gala or wedding (pair it with a thin black tank).
A newish brand from Reformation founder Yael Aflalo that I’ve kept stored in my rolodex for when I’ll need something spunky for an occasion. Not any occasion. Not a corporate function. But something FUN. The line deserves that. Yes, they have blazers but they also have floor length leopard coats and, in my opinion, the dresses are where they shine.
On my wish list: This for an event and this to add a little spice into a night out. (Side note I almost wrote date night but then I realized that a date night has been a bit of a foreign concept for us. Between kids and friends, we’re usually so exhausted that date night means a 9 pm bedtime. Is that abnormal? Is everyone else going on date nights?). Oh and this because who doesn’t love a silk jacket with a high collar?! With a skinny cocktail pant (I love these, but size up… maybe by two sizes if you’re usually in between sizes. I got a 2 but should have gotten a 4.) and big, costumey earrings.
JEWELRY
Her silver combs make it on to many of my mood boards. And a recent show she did with the wonderful and talented Trevor Cheney (you might know him from his work at Galerie Half) at his eponymous gallery had me swooning. I also love her instagram; it’s a treasure trove of inspiration.
On my wish list: These tiny Spear earrings (I’d wear two in one ear and one in the other, like the styling above) and this pearl collar is so elegant.
I’ve been lusting after Renato Cipullo’s pieces since I first spotted them at an event thrown by SubStax at my friend Demetra’s dreamy Sullivan Canyon home (she has a pink Le Cornue. I mean!!). He is a true master of craft.
On my wishlist: These sculptural earrings and this necklace with a L for my daughter Lily.
I devoted a whole column to Sherman Field, and its wildly talented founder Danielle Sherman. I wear her barre huggies every day. People overuse the term “modern heirloom” but that’s truly what these pieces are. Crafted by hand, with the finest materials, that you pass down to daughters or nieces.
On my wishlist: This necklace, always. And Grace Atwood ‘s tassel earrings are pretty fabulous too.
Bits, Bobs, Etc
I put this on the subscriber chat but if you’re ever in Melbourne, back in December, I stumbled upon this incredible shoe maker who is sort of my dream artisan. John has been making shoes in Italy for 40 years, doesn’t sell online, mans the shop himself and uses the most gorgeous materials and construction to make stunning but oddly comfortable shoes (he only makes 8-10 of each style and size).
When I was at the shop, he said something along the lines of: “I haven’t worn women’s shoes in some time, but if they’re the same, I feel bad for the women!”
I picked up a pair of eel skin loafers in a deep brown with a reddish tint that have an undetectable padding in the sole, making them feel like a hug every time I wear them. The exact material is the same one as the Row uses (their factory is across the street), but he sells them for around $500 ($750 AUD).
You can buy his collaboration with chic gender neutral tailor E. Nolan online. These are the ones I got, and here is the full capsule. Or try DM’ing him via IG.
If you enjoyed this piece, please consider hearting below. It helps non-subscribers see this story. Also, if you click on something, I may earn a (very small) commission, which will be donated to the Eaton Fire Relief Fund. You’ll see that I sometimes link to the same things as in past newsletters. That’s because if you buy something, I want you to wear it, and I think it’s helpful to see pieces you own in different contexts and outfits. Thank you!! xx NRB
Thank you for sharing these brands! I love what your wrote: How and what we choose to spend will eventually dictate what the market gives us. So true! I am excited to shop and support these female owned, female created brands.
your posts are what get me through the week! (p,s, house of dagmar is everything) x